An earlier breakfast at 7.30 am saw the group awake to the final notes from the Carnaval tent, as the last party goers straggled home!
A smooth bus ride to Malaga airport courtesy of Juan Rivero himself, had the group in plenty of time to take to the blue skies, and back to the UK.
It has been a really great week, with organisers and participants enjoying themselves in equal measure.
Roll on 2013!!!
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Callum led the longer walk via the cliffs of Tajo de la Caina with stunning views all the way south to the mediterranean. The cliffs tops are a jumble of slate slabs, where the group found the remains of a threshing circle; testimony to the incredible feats of ploughing at high altitude on very poor soils that was a common way of life until about 50 years ago.
The path continued to climb, with the random stunted mountain oaks replacing the serried ranks of Spanish Firs. These oaks have a peculiar form, a trunk often dovetailing to short branches and twigs, as the heavy snows prove too much for over extended limbs causing them to break off.
Once reunited the group returned to the village of El Burgo, just in time to witness the Children’s Carnaval procession and party in the marquee.
Then it was time to sit down with Ralph and Catherine who plan to extend their stay to take in a visit to the city of Granda and its beautiful Alhambra Palace. We have then planned some short self guided walks for them as they stay for a further 3 nights in Ronda.
Other members of the group revisited the ceramic and painting workshops to pick up the fruits of their earlier labour; Ralph and Catherine’s pottery will provide a talking point in their house, whilst Jane’s painting of the Pinsapo Firs will hopefully find a frame and pride of place on one her walls.
Our evening meal in yet another different eatery was marvelously accompanied by a red wine made in El Burgo………the best of the week according to the group.
Callum gave his thanks to the group and urged them to spread the word in time for the 2013 edition. He also presented an item of Carnaval clothing for each participant to help them get into the fiesta spirit ………can you spot the said items?
The group retired to a bar for the nightcap, and managed to stay awake long enough to witness the colourful and imaginative group costumes.
Shock Horror! A cloudy day with cooler temperatures and a few drops of rain may have cooled the blood, but did nothing to dampen our spirits!
The group split in two with two vehicles setting off in pursuit of feathered species.
The rest took a 20 minute bus ride to the next village of Yunquera from where our walking routes begun. A wonderful ancient cobbled path, once used by the monks from the nearby monastery, climbs slowly through a terraced landscape of vines, olives and cherry trees.
Before long the path left behind all signs of human workings and dove into the nature park; a forest of pines, Spanish Firs and native oak replantings. After the ‘elevenses’ stop, the group spilt for a longer and shorter walk. The skies continued to darken, and layers were donned as a few fat drop of rain started to fall.
There is smell particular to rain hitting dusty ground in tropical or semi tropical parts of the world. It’s a sensory experience yet to be replicated by any permufier or master chef, and thus all the more unique; as these pungent earth bound pores find release from a heaven drenched messenger.
Luckily the gloomy skies did nothing more than glower, and before too long, the group were safely ensconsed in Casa Christie sipping tea and dirty beers!
Meanwhile the two birdwatching expeditions were clocking up the species counts, expertly led by Peter Jones and Bob Wright. Over 70 species between the two groups including Flamingoes, Cranes, Bonelli’s Eagle, Hoopoes, Avocet, and Balck winged Stilts, made for an extremely rewarding day out.
This evening we let our hair down, stayed put in our hotel, and watched as an al fresco Paella was cooked before our eyes. Additional entertainment was provided by friends from El Burgo, who demonstrated the intricacies of traditional Andaluz dance. Before long the group had donned hats, shawls, and castanets in an effort to replicate the ‘arte’. A great night made all the better by the spontaneous involvement of all present.
Spring is in the Air!
Phil Sansum spotted the first Spring Swallow in El Burgo today!
The walking schedule took a well earned rest as we all headed to the town of Ronda with its stunning setting that straddles the Tajo gorge.
In the morning we visited the Descalzos Viejos winery and were ably introduced to their wines by Flavio Salesi. This bodega is set in a restored Convent, and incredibly some the original altar frescoes still exist! Tucked into the edge of the Ronda escarpment, the winery has a privileged outlook over the Ronda Vega.
Some of the group opted to walk into the town via the Vega, with great views up to the New Bridge and the hanging houses.
Sadly, after lunch the group had to say their farewells to the Phil our Ecologist and Stephen our peninsular War Historian. These two have added real value to the Festival, and some of the group have already been heard to say that they are looking forward to the next installment of talks next year!
The afternoon was taken up with a wonderfully informative guided walk of Old Ronda by Antonio Jesus Naranjo, a native rondeño who led none other than Michelle Obama when she visited Ronda in 2010! In true Frontier Holidays style, Antonio made sure the group discovered some of the lesser known corners of this attractive town…
Back at the hotel, the group enjoyed the second scientific talk by Julian Brower concerning the Birth of a Star. There were some awe inspiring images courtesy of the Hubble telescope that had us thinking hard!
A wonderful day was rounded off by a great meal of tapas at Casa Pepe.
Buenos Noches!
What a day! we’re only half way through the Festival, and already it feels like we’ve had a week’s worth of activities.
Today’s activities included a great walk into the heart of the Sierra de la Nieves Nature Park, and an all day Andalucian cookery master class.
The cookery class covered a range of tapas and traditional mountain dishes, all ably demonstrated by Conchi Banderas who runs the kitchen at the local Hostal Sierra de las Nieves. Fried Quails Eggs on Jamon, Aubergine chiplets, and baby Chorizo in wine were just some of the finger foods, with a Seafood hot pot, Asparagus soup, Garlic chicken and Pork casserole some of the more substantial dishes whose secrets were unlocked.
Our walk round the Peñon de Ronda proved to be a voyage of discovery with Phil Sansum and Callum interpreting the varied landscapes that the group passed through. From mixed woods, through intensively grazed hillsides overshadowed by limestone cliffs, before meeting the montane forests of Spanish Fir. Reaching a height of just over 1200m and encountering a depleted snow line, the views north were outstanding.
The evening entertainment was provided by Stephen Drake-Jones, Chairman of the Wellington Society in Madrid. He travelled down on the high speed train yesterday, and today took time to familiarise himself with the village of El Burgo, before delivering an entertaining talk covering the travails of Spain during the French occupation by Napoleon’s troops.
Today’s main event is ‘El día de Andalucia’ (Andalucia Day) This is a public holiday, which celebrates regional identity.
Before the celebrations got underway, we all enjoyed a half day circular walk from the village to the nearby ruined mill of el Fuensanta, which boasts a year round supply of spring water.
We arrived back to the village in perfect time for the Andalucia Day celebrations to begin. Some 4000 visitors took part in the Sopa de los 7 Ramales, a communal made soup with local ingredients including wild asparagus. All festival goers seemed to really appreciate experiencing this local tradition at first hand and immersed themselves fully. We then enjoyed more entertainment in the form of los Verdiales, an Andalucian version of Morris Dancing, as well as some Flamenco dance by the local school children.
In the evening, myself and Festival resident Ecologist, Phil Sansum shared our knowledge of the nearby Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park with festival goers.
Festival folk enjoying their first walk.
The Walking and Cultural Festival got into full swing today! The group was split; some taking part in a day’s pottery workshop with Devlet Dirik, a Turk born artist now resident in El Burgo with her partner Paco Mayorga. Others took up the easel and brush under Paco’s expert tuition to turn out some excellent oil paintings. We were a little nervous that a morning and afternoon session might be too intense, but the time seemed to fly by, and the fruits of their labour were more than merely presentable… Photos coming soon!
The remainder of the Festival group jumped on board Juan Rivero’s bus for 25 minutes, before being dropped off. The group then walked back to the village. Guided by Callum Christie the Festival Director, the route followed old Drover’s trails that formerly linked inland areas with Malaga’s livestock markets.
Accompanied by our resident Ecologist Phil Sansum, the group were able to gain some valuable insights regarding the natural and human forces that have helped to shape the present landscape. Stopping for a picnic lunch by the ruined Cortijo El Pliar, overshadowed by the limestone cliffs of Sierra Cabrilla, with views of the surrounding hills, olive and almond groves, the group were soon overwhelmed by an urge to partake of a siesta!
After lunch, we split into two groups, those with an urge to make a beeline for the village followed our resident walking guide Ian Hassel, whilst the remainder followed Callum to bag the small peak of Molototo. This area around El Chorrito sheep farm has been home to Iron age settlements. We also found flint deposits on the ploughed arable lands, the only place they are found with in this area.
Once reunited the group enjoyed a fascinating presentation by our resident Astro Physicist Julain Brower, who gave a spell binding introduction to our solar system. After the evening meal, Julian then led the group out of the village a short distance, from where they were able to enjoy a guided tour of the visible constellations and planets.
All aboard! The journey to El Burgo begins..
Malaga Airport 11am and an unheard of happening – all Festival goer’s flights arrived within 50 minutes of each other and on time! Our trusted driver, Juan Rivero, then drove the group in his air conditioned bus the hour and a half journey to the pretty White Village of El Burgo. The 3 star Casa Grande Hotel, a converted mansion house in the centre of the village will be home for a week.
After settling in, we all enjoyed a late tapas lunch ( a mere 10 courses!) on the sun soaked outdoor terrace and our festival folk were already enthused about all things Spanish!
Late afternoon saw the brand new Tourist Info Office playing host to our welcome party. A short video accompanied by a glass of Cava and some marinaded olives from El Burgo, served as a good intro to this beautiful area. A display of old black and white photos of rural village life also helped to set the scene.
El Burgo is a village with just 2000 inhabitants, but we’ll be eating in a different restaurant or bar every night. I calculate there is a bar or eatery for every 133 inhabitants!
Dinner at the Yoni was a sumptuous affair, and left folk feeling like a good walk the next day would help wear of the effects of cheese, jamon, vino amongst other yummy dishes.
